If you’ve ever had a watch that lost its shine mid-picnic, stopped ticking after a dip in a rain puddle, or just got so gunky with everyday grime that you could barely read the dial, you know how frustrating it is. As someone who’s spent the last 12 years sourcing, testing, and selling watches of all styles—from delicate dress pieces for board meetings to rugged dive watches that can handle beach days—this is the question I get most often from customers. People ask if they should take their watch to a jeweler, if they can just wipe it with a paper towel, or if there’s a way to get gunk out of those tiny, hard-to-reach gaps without ruining the movement. The truth is, cleaning a watch isn’t one-size-fits-all; it depends on if it’s mechanical or quartz, how water-resistant it is, and what kind of materials it’s made from. I’ve messed up more than a few watches over the years (once I tried to clean a vintage stainless steel diver with rubbing alcohol and it stripped the soft coating on the lugs) so I’ve learned the hard way what works and what doesn’t. Let’s break this down step by step, no fancy tools needed—just a little patience and some common sense. Watches
First, before you touch anything, you need to know your watch’s basics. This isn’t just a trivial step—it’s the most important one. Most watches have a water-resistance rating stamped on the back case, and it’s not a suggestion: 3 ATM means it’s only splash-proof (good for washing hands, bad for swimming), 5 ATM can handle shallow swimming, and 10+ ATM is for diving. If a watch is marked “water-resistant” but no number, that’s a throwaway term—assume it’s only for dry conditions. I always tell my customers to double-check the back of their watch because trying to clean a non-water-resistant watch with water is the fastest way to a dead movement. I once had a customer bring in a $2,000 mechanical watch that he tried to rinse off after a hike, and the moisture got into the gears, causing rust that cost $800 to fix. Don’t be that guy. Also, note your watch’s materials: a leather strap? You can’t soak that. A gold-plated case? Harsh chemicals will wear off the plating. A ceramic bezel? It’s tough, but it scratches easily if you use a stiff brush. Jot down these details before you start, and you’ll avoid 90% of mistakes.
The next step is gathering your supplies, and you don’t need a watchmaker’s tool kit. I keep a little cleaning bin under my desk for this, and it only has five items: a soft, lint-free microfiber cloth (the same kind you use for eyeglasses works), a small bowl of lukewarm water (hot water can damage seals or cause glue on straps to fail), a drop of mild, pH-neutral dish soap (like Dawn Original—nothing with moisturizers or heavy scents, those leave residue), a soft-bristled toothbrush (new, not one you used to brush with toothpaste on), and a can of compressed air (the kind you use for keyboards, not the one with the straw attachment that sprays liquid). That’s it. No rubbing alcohol, no bleach, no window cleaner—these are all too harsh and will break down the gaskets that keep water out, or scratch delicate finishes. I learned that when I tried to clean a customer’s stainless steel chronograph with glass cleaner a few years ago; the ammonia in the cleaner left streaks on the polished lugs that took hours to buff out, and I had to apologize for the mistake. Stick to these basics, and you’re safe.
Now, the process depends on whether your watch has a leather strap or a metal (stainless steel, titanium, gold) strap, because leather is porous and needs way gentler care. Let’s start with leather straps first, since they’re the most common to damage. If your watch has a leather strap, never submerge it in water. All you need to do is take your dry microfiber cloth and add a tiny drop of the mild soap, then rub the cloth into a lather. Gently dab the lather onto the leather strap, focusing on the areas that get the most sweat or grime (where your wrist touches, near the lugs) and any stains like coffee or food. Don’t scrub hard—leather is soft, and scrubbing will cause it to crack or fade. After you’ve dabbed all the dirty areas, take a clean, damp part of the microfiber cloth and wipe off all the soap residue immediately. Then, lay the watch flat on a dry towel, away from direct sunlight or heat sources (like a radiator or a window that gets hot in the afternoon), and let it air dry completely for 24 hours before you put it back on. I always tell customers to avoid wearing leather watches for a day after cleaning to make sure all moisture is gone; if you put a damp leather strap back on your wrist, it will absorb sweat and develop a musty smell, or even mildew over time. I have a few vintage leather straps that I clean this way every three months, and they still look like new, so this method works if you do it right.
For metal straps and stainless steel or titanium cases—this is the part where I’ve had the most success, and also the most failures. First, if your watch is water-resistant (5 ATM or higher) and has a metal strap, you can get it a little wet, but still don’t submerge it fully unless it’s a dive watch (and even dive watch owners know to take it to a pro for full servicing). Start by taking your lukewarm soapy water, and dip a corner of your microfiber cloth into it, wringing it out so it’s just damp (not dripping). Wipe down the entire case and bezel first, getting into the small gaps between lugs where dirt gets stuck. Then, take your soft toothbrush and dip the bristles into the soapy water, again wringing out excess so it’s not dripping. Gently scrub the gaps between the metal links of the strap, moving from top to bottom so any dislodged grime falls into the bowl (not onto the movement, if it’s a quartz or mechanical watch). Be careful around the crown (the knob you use to set time) and the case back—don’t press too hard, because the toothbrush bristles can push water into the movement if you’re rough. After you’ve scrubbed all the gaps, rinse the toothbrush with clean lukewarm water and wipe down the strap and case a second time to remove all soap residue. Then, take your dry microfiber cloth and buff the entire watch until it’s dry and shiny, paying extra attention to the areas near the lugs where water tends to pool. For the tiny hard-to-reach gaps between links, I use the compressed air—hold the can a few inches away (don’t get too close, that can also spray liquid) and blast the gaps gently to blow out any leftover dirt or water. This works way better than using a cotton swab, which can leave tiny cotton fibers stuck in the links, and is way gentler than a stiff brush that can scratch the metal. I’ve used this method on hundreds of watches, from $50 quartz timepieces to $5,000 mechanical divers, and I’ve never had one get damaged.
Now, what about quartz watches, mechanical watches, and vintage watches? These are the ones that need a little extra care, because their movements are fragile. If it’s a quartz watch (the kind that runs on a battery), as long as it’s not a vintage watch, the same metal cleaning method works—just make sure you don’t get water near the battery compartment, which is usually on the back case. For mechanical watches, especially automatic ones that have a rotor inside, you want to be extra careful with water. I only recommend the lukewarm soapy water method for mechanical watches if they’re at least 10 ATM water-resistant and have a sealed case. If it’s a vintage mechanical watch (pre-1980, most of which are only 3 ATM or less), skip the water entirely. Instead, use a dry microfiber cloth and a little bit of watch cleaner (available at most jewelry stores, not the drugstore) applied sparingly to the cloth, then wipe gently. Vintage watch movements are not sealed well, and water will get in and cause rust, which is impossible to fix sometimes. I once had a customer bring in his grandfather’s 1960s Omega Seamaster, and he tried to clean it with water; the movement seized up, and he ended up having to replace it, which cost more than the watch was worth. Don’t make that mistake—if you have a vintage watch, stick to dry cleaning only, and if it’s really dirty, take it to a certified watchmaker instead of trying to do it yourself.
Then there are the mistakes you should absolutely avoid, because these are the ones that will ruin your watch. First, never use rubbing alcohol, bleach, or any harsh chemical cleaner. I mentioned this earlier, but it’s worth repeating—these chemicals break down the rubber gaskets that keep water out, so over time, your watch will stop being water-resistant even if it was rated 20 ATM. Second, never use paper towels or toilet paper to clean your watch. These have tiny wood fibers that scratch metal and get stuck in gaps, plus they leave lint. I learned this when a customer used a paper towel to clean his chronograph, and the paper left scratch marks on the polished bezel that I had to polish out for free. Third, never put your watch in an ultrasonic cleaner unless you’re positive it’s designed for it. Ultrasonic cleaners are great for some items, but they can damage delicate parts of watch movements, especially on quartz and vintage watches. A lot of watchmakers use them, but only for mechanical watches that are fully sealed and disassembled for servicing—don’t use one at home. Fourth, don’t skip drying. If you leave water sitting on a metal watch for too long, it will leave water spots, and if it’s a steel watch that’s not stainless, it can rust. Even stainless steel will show streaks if you don’t buff it dry, so take the extra minute to wipe it down.
Once you’ve cleaned your watch, there’s a little extra care to keep it looking good between cleans. For watches you wear every day, give it a quick wipe with a microfiber cloth after each wear to remove sweat and dirt—this cuts down on deep cleans to once every three months, which is perfect for most people. For watches you only wear occasionally (like a dress watch for weddings or holidays), clean it once every six months before putting it away, and store it in a soft watch box away from other jewelry that can scratch it. If you wear a watch in the shower, at the beach, or swimming, even if it’s rated for that, give it a quick rinse with fresh water after (salt water and chlorine are harsh on seals and metal) and dry it immediately. I have a customer who wears his dive watch every weekend on his boat, and he follows this routine—his watch is five years old and looks like it did the day he bought it.
Now, I know some of you might be thinking, “This is great, but what if my watch is really dirty, or I’m worried about damaging it?” That’s totally fair. I’ve worked with watch customers for years, and I know not everyone is comfortable cleaning their own watches, especially expensive or vintage ones. That’s why I want to make this easy for you. If you have a watch that needs professional cleaning, or if you’re looking for a new watch that’s easy to maintain, you can reach out to our team to chat about your needs. We carry a wide range of watches—from affordable everyday pieces to high-end mechanical timepieces—all of which come with care instructions tailored to their specific materials and water-resistance ratings. Whether you need help figuring out your watch’s water resistance, tips for cleaning a specific model, or just want to browse watches that fit your lifestyle, our team is here to help. We work with individuals, collectors, and businesses, so whatever your needs are, we can find a solution that works for you. No pressure, no sales pitch—just honest advice from someone who’s been in the watch industry for a long time and cares about helping people keep their watches looking great for years.
Casual Luxury Bags References:
- The Watch Repair Clinic. "Basic Watch Care: Cleaning and Maintenance for Everyday Timepieces." 2022.
- International Watchmakers Association. "Water Resistance Ratings and Watch Seal Care." 2021.
- Leather Care Association. "Gentle Cleaning Methods for Leather Watch Straps." 2020.
- Swiss Watch Federation. "Best Practices for Cleaning Metal Watch Cases and Straps." 2023.
- U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission. "Harmful Chemicals in Household Cleaners and Watch Damage." 2021.
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